From the Himalayas

March 30, 2008

Greetings from Sonapani (Uttaranchal State, India),

The pictures I've promised will need more time to upload. So stay tuned for those. Also, I'm going to start dating my entries, since they will not be sent the day that they are written.

We arrived at our final destination in the Himalayas earlier this morning. We left the Old Delhi train station last night around 11:00pm. The train ride was seven hours long. The beds were comfortable and I slept relatively okay. Our study abroad program director (Keith) reminded us to be very careful about of belongings, because of the high incidence of theft on Indian trains. He told us a story about a friend of his who was traveling by train to Dehradun (capital of Uttaranchal state). The friend fell asleep holding onto the handle of his backpack. He woke up holding the handle of the seat railing, backpack completely gone. Luckily, that did not happen to me, and I emerged from the train—seven hours later—with all my belongings.

Following the train ride, we had a three-hour car journey to our final destination in the little townlet called Sonapani ("Gold Water"). The journey was terrifying, to say the least. The ride was 80 km/hr sprint up a steeply switchbacked mountain road. In fact, I think the driver was absolutely crazy to be driving so quickly on the perilous roads. He was driving completely nonchalantly, one hand on the wheel and weaving perilously around trucks that seem to pummel down the slopes. After an hour of gripping the front seats with white-knuckled hands—we didn't have any seat belts, by the way—I miraculously fell asleep. I decided that if I had to die in the mountains of India, I might as well do it in a non-conscious state.

We arrived at Sonapani around 8:30 am. A delicious breakfast was waiting for us. After a week of eating nothing but dosas and samosas, I nearly cried with joy when I saw fresh fruits and vegetables. I can totally get used to living here. All the vegetables are grown in a local garden; and all the food is freshly prepared and absolutely delicious. So here we are, drinking the best chai ever and watching distant clouds travel along the sharp outline of the majestic Himilayas.

I am quite happy to have left Delhi. After spending a week in the capital of India, I have decided that it is the most polluted and physically uncomfortable city I have ever visited. After a week in Delhi, the interior of my nose was clogged with a disgusting layer of black gook. That is why you should always breathe through your nose in Delhi. I'm sure that anyone who stays in Delhi for more than a month would develop respiratory disorders. However, if the climate of Delhi wasn't so uncomfortable, I'd think it would be a cool place to live. The city is widely diverse. It offers incredible culture and history, as well as impressive array modern amenities. I've also acclimated well to the Indian metro lifestyle. I didn't experience the culture shock that many of my friends have mentioned. Riding an auto-rickshaw is definitely not as terrifying as I've expected. Yes, the driving is crazy but I've experienced worse in Taiwan. Even being approached by sleazy men didn't really concern me. You simply ignore the guy or tell him to leave you alone. You accept it as a reality of the situation and environment and move on. What can you do?

I've experienced as much as Delhi has to offer. I've seen all the major landmarks, some more than once. I've taken every form of transportation Delhi has: taxis, personalized chauffeurs, autos (auto rickshaws), bicycle rickshaws, and buses. I've successfully bartered with tricky storeowners and rickshaw drivers. I'm still a horrible haggler, but I've managed to cut some costs from ridiculous prices from merchants who want to fool foreigners. I've eaten potentially hazardous street food that comes from shabby looking restaurants—and remarkably, I still haven't gotten sick. I've wandered Delhi alone at night, against all my good intentions and plans (it's a long story). I've seen a Bollywood film at a Delhi cinema. And finally, I've experienced most or all of the socioeconomic gradients of Delhi: from living with wealthy Indians in Defense Colony to meandering in the smelly streets of Old Delhi.

My journey in India has just started. Next weekend, a group of us will be traveling to Nainital, a beautiful hill station in Uttaranchal state. Hopefully, I can also get started on my research project with rural medicine. And thanks to everyone who sent emails. Your blessings and kind words are very well appreciated. Until then, namaste.

--Vania